The city of Matsue, aka Mizu no miyako (City of Water), is home to one of Japan’s few remaining original castles as well as onsen and parks. It is also the birthplace of Kei Nishikori, a tennis player.
Visitors can experience feudal lord life from the top of the castle keep and explore Hearn’s former samurai residence and museum. 島根県松江市 介護
1. Matsue Castle
One of 12 original castles remaining in Japan, Matsue Castle was built over a five-year period by feudal lord Horio Yoshiharu. Upon its completion, its elegance earned it the nickname “Plover Castle” (Chidori-jo). Today, visitors can explore its interiors to admire carefully staged reconstitutions of samurai armors and other exhibits.
Enter through the main gate and savor its rich historical atmosphere, including wooden floors that have been worn smooth by centuries of footsteps. Stroll along the turret-adorned corridors while admiring the carefully constructed rooms fit for a warlord. As you make your way up to the top, you’ll find a special room where you can enjoy a tea ceremony performed in traditional style. It’s a great way to experience the local culture, while sipping high quality matcha green tea and eating Japanese confectionary.
Originally designed for warfare, the castle features defensive elements like precarious stairways, arrow and gun holes, along with a large turret affixed to the roof, and holes for dropping stones. Also worth noting are the onigawara, a roof tile shaped into the image of an ogre, which was used to ward off invading armies.
The castle grounds are a popular spot for strolls, especially in spring and fall when the trees are adorned with cherry, plum and camellia flowers. And don’t miss the chance to ride one of the Horikawa sightseeing boats on a tour around the castle moat, where you’ll be treated to views of the city.
2. Lake Shinji
The city’s name reflects its location between Lake Shinji, Nakaumi and the Sea of Japan, which earned it the nickname “The Water City”. In addition to being home to one of 12 remaining original castles, Matsue is a former feudal stronghold and a true castle town with canals and old houses. Visitors can enjoy a range of natural, cultural and historic attractions, from the castle’s stunning keep and a nearby Japanese garden to a traditional hot spring resort.
Lake Shinji and adjacent Lake Nakaumi make up Japan’s largest brackish-water ecosystem. The lakes are separated by Ohashi River, which connects Lake Shinji with Lake Nakaumi. The main source of freshwater for Lake Shinji comes from the Hii River, while saline waters from the Sea of Japan intrude into Lake Nakaumi via the Sakai Channel. The lakes’ water conditions vary depending on the season and weather, with Lake Shinji being more brackish in winter than in summer.
Located by the lake, Shirakata Park features a promenade, benches and trees along with a large stone lantern (shijimi) and a footbridge that spans the width of the lake. It’s the perfect spot to enjoy the beautiful sunset over the lake and its islands.
The Shimane Art Museum is also a highlight of the area’s arts scene, especially after local collector Nagata Seiji donated his extensive collection of Hokusai works to the museum in 2017. Some pieces are displayed throughout the facility, while others feature in a gallery that explores the theme of water, inspired by Matsue’s nickname and its position between two lakes. This gallery juxtaposes works by western artists like Claude Monet with traditional Japanese paintings, showing how different styles can uniquely interpret the same subject matter.
3. Tamatsukuri Hot Spring
From ancient times, Japanese people have developed a bathing culture that incorporates hot spring therapy. The renowned hot springs at Tamatsukuri are well known for their skin-conditioning properties and were even praised by the author Sei Shonagon in her classic Pillow Book, who said that "Bathing here makes you beautiful, bathing twice heals any illness."
The most famous of these is Dogo Onsen (), which features a stunning main building with a magatama, or comma-shaped jewel, motif. Its architecture has been recognized as an Important Cultural Property, and the interior is equally breathtaking. In addition to the indoor bath, it offers a wide variety of spa treatments such as massage and sauna. Guests can also enjoy meals and drinks served in the traditional ryokan setting.
In addition to the main bath at Dogo Onsen, there are several other traditional inns that offer onsen bathing as part of their accomodations. The city of Matsue has also created a number of free natural foot spas, which are popular among both locals and visitors, as well as many day trip hot springs where you can bathe without staying overnight.
Among these, Mimata Onsen and Arifuku Hot Springs are popular for their clear, alkaline water. In fact, the water at Arifuku is so good for your skin that cosmetics made with it are sold throughout Japan. Also worth a visit is Okuizumi, which is famous for its mud-based hot springs and the beautiful, natural environment of its hot spring valley. If you're interested in trying out some of these top 7 Matsue hot springs, we recommend a stay at one of the traditional inns (ryokan) in this area.
4. Gesshoji Temple
The former home of Lafcadio Hearn, the writer who introduced Matsue to the West, is now a 300-year-old residence museum with rooms and gardens that give you an idea of how the samurai lived. The house is a few blocks from the original castle and near a shrine dedicated to the gods that created Japan. The Adachi Museum of Art, a modern art museum with one of Japan’s best landscape gardens, is also nearby.
Matsue’s ancient origins are evident in the city’s shrines, including several from the Izumo period—a group of deities responsible for creating the islands of Japan. Among them are Yaegaki Shrine, Kumano Taisha and Suga Shrine.
Gesshoji Temple, a family temple of the Matsudaira clan that once ruled the region, is a national historic site and burial ground for nine Matsudaira lords. It is nicknamed “The Hydrangea Temple” for its beautiful blooming hydrangeas from mid-June to mid-July.
Each of the nine graves is adorned with architectural features that match the life and personality of the lord. For instance, the karamon (Chinese-style gate) preceding the tomb of Lord Matsudaira Naomasa features carvings of sake gourds in honor of his love for sake. The grave of Lord Matsudaira Fumai, the founder of the tea culture in the area, is marked with a memorial that honors his devotion to the ceremonial practice of making matcha green tea.
A tea house is located on the premises where visitors can experience a traditional Japanese tea ceremony. For a small fee, you can also enjoy some matcha and wagashi (Japanese sweets) in the tranquil, serene setting of Gesshoji Temple. International visitors and foreign residents of Japan are eligible for half price admission, which makes the experience more affordable.
5. Tanabe Museum
In the world of Japanese bamboo art, Tanabe Chikuunsai IV stands out as one of its most radical practitioners. From his colossal installations at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and Musee Guimet to recent solo exhibitions in Paris and Belgium, Tanabe’s massive, sinuous structures woven on-site from tiger bamboo seem to emerge from and meld into floors, walls, and ceilings with fluidity and a living energy. OMM is pleased to welcome the artist to the gallery, where he will create a site-specific installation inside the museum’s walls.
The OMM collection features an array of Japanese works of art, including paintings by the traditional style painter Nonagase Banka and Watase Ryoun, and ceramics, lacquer ware and paper goods. The museum’s glass building is designed by SEJIMA Kazuyo + NISHIZAWA Ryue / SANAA, and temporary galleries are regularly on display in the space. Education programs aimed at different age groups are offered in conjunction with the museum’s exhibits.
Located in southwest Shimane Prefecture, Matsue is a town of lakes and rivers, with one of the few remaining original castle towns, built in 1611. The 17th-century Matsue Castle’s moat includes the giant rope made of rice straw to honor the Shinto harvest god, and the city’s center is lined with Edo-period samurai residences, including the former residence of the 19th-century Irish American writer Lafcadio Hearn—one of the first foreigners to become naturalized as a Japanese citizen. The city is also known for its sunsets over Lake Shinji, and the lake is home to many shrines and temples. It is also surrounded by mountains, and boasts wonderful Japanese gardens such as Yuushien and Adachi Museum. Matsue was once the capital of the ancient province of Izumo.
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